Gourmet Cooking Safari: July 2007

This is the stories and adventures of a group of people, brought together with the common desire to explore and experience the tastes and flavours of South Africa. Matilda, who originates from South Africa, was the organiser. The participants were Suzanne, Jan, June & Kevin, Gretta & Elwyn, Ann, Dianne, Sue, Vieca and myself Patty.

Please join us on our adventure.

Day 1 – Tues: The start of our adventure!

As we all originate from different places within Australia, our flights leave from Brisbane, Sydney and Perth all heading towards Singapore airport and the first chance most of us have to meet each other. And of course there is plenty of time for shopping, dinning and to grab a massage before we are back on a plane for our final leg to Cape Town.

Day 2 – Wed: Our flight arrives in Cape Town at 7.30am and for some of us we have a desperate need for good coffee with or without milk tarts.

We met Neil, who formally is our guide / driver, but as he shows us his favourite places and shares his stories; becomes our friend.

Neil drives us to STELLENBOSCH where we will stay for the main part of our tour. Rooms are allotted and reallocated as we check in at the fantastic VILLA GRANDE – what an interesting place, what memories, what surprises! Our first day in Stellenbosch is a day at leisure to shop, sleep, taste sparkling wines or just get over any jet lag.

That night was the first of our culinary experiences – dinner at “SOSATI” – what a way to start. Here we experienced the wide variety of South African game meats, including ostrich, springbok, wildebeest and venison. And for some it was the first taste of the red wine called Pinotage.

Day 3 – Thurs: It’s into Neil’s mini bus and off to Franschoek, a quaint little village in a fantastic wine region. We have time for a quick browse around the village before our cooking Class with TOPSY VENETURE - the doyenne of food in South Africa. What a dynamic personality, so much life and energy.

Our ‘’Tospy lunch experience’ commences with a tasting of some brilliant local wines, then moves on to an amazing cooking demonstrating followed by a scrumptious lunch in her fantastic restaurant.

After lunch Neil sneaks in a special treat - chocolate tasting (as if we can eat another thing!). He then takes us up Helshoogte to see the view of the

valley below - spectacular! Baboons roam this country but unfortunately or fortunately depending on how you look at it, we didn’t meet any.

It's then off for Champagne tasting before returning to the Villa Grande for an evening of leisure. That night at the Villa Grande we were served a traditional “Boontjiesop” and a simple dessert, which tasted so goooood - fresh fruit on porcupine skewers and frozen yoghurt.

Day 4 – Fri: After a scrumptious breakfast we head off to Dombaia and Rust en Vrede for a tasting of their wines - two of the many famous wineries in the region. We can't help but to comment on how good the wines are, but also on how the

country side is picture

postcard perfect!

It’s then onto “VOLKSKOMBUIS” where we have our second ‘Cooking Class’. Here we are introduced to an interesting mixture of traditional and modern dishes

The theory was to then go back to the “Villa Grande” for a rest, but what can we do when there was so much shopping to be done!

Later the afternoon we went to the historical “LANZERAC” for drinks and nibbles in their unusual bar. It felt like we had been transported into another era. The evening was to be at leisure – like hell! We all go to Lafayette for dinner.

Day 5 – Sat: A scenic drive takes us to PATERNOSTER – one of the most beautiful fishing villages on the West Coast. It has gorgeous beaches and unspoiled countryside.

Paternoster, which means “Our Father”,

received its name in the days when the slave trade was still flourishing. Legend has it the Meermijn, a ship with a cargo of slaves, came ashore in search of fresh food and water supplies. A catholic priest on board the vessel said the Lord’s Payer (Padre Nostre) on the beach to give thanks for the fresh supplies they were able to find.

Here we are able to visit an Abalone Farm, were we see and hear how the abalone are farmed and distributed, but please, NO Photos! Close by is Cape Columbine, which boasts one of the last manned lighthouses; and the Beach Camp.

The BEACH CAMP is a magical please were we had an impromptu cooking class and a spectacular lunch of Seafood Paella, cooked over an open fire right on the rocks by the sea.

It was due to the beauty and uniqueness of this very special place that 4 of us decided to defect and stay the night. And what a night! For dinner we were served fresh yellowfin BBQ over an open fire. It was then drinks at the bar and a brilliant night of fun and entertainment, before retiring to our huts that were only meters from the water. And if this wasn’t enough to make you heart sing, it was topped off with an absolutely spectacular sunrise the following morning.

The remainder of the group returned to overnight at the historic PATERNOSTER HOTEL and enjoy the famous West coast hospitality. That evening they dined on a traditional meal of Lobster and Snoek Braai (BBQ), fresh from the ocean! A unique experience! In fact, the fish cakes served that night were so good that a cooking demonstration was organised for the next morning. Hopefully we can recreate them when we returned home.

Day 6 – Sun: After a stroll around Paternoster and our cooking demonstration we headed back to Stellenbosch, via GROOTE POST (another winery which we didn’t quite get to, but we made up for it with shopping at the local market!) and “EVITA SE PERRON”. Here we had lunch at the famous theatre restaurant. Quite a unique experience, and lots of laughs from jokes directed at us Aussies by Evita herself!

An evening at leisure. A wonderful night in the cosy lounge at Villa Grande eating our left over crayfish and snoek and washed down with a wonderful glass (or two) of wine.

Day 7 – Mon: Our first rainy day, but heck, when has a bit of rain ever stopped an Aussie. It was into the minibus and off to Backsberg and Kanonkop for some wonderful wine tasting.

Then on to DRAKENSTEIN LION PARK were we where able to stroll through the park and view these magnificent animals up close or from a raised platform. There is nothing quiet like coming eye to eye with a full-grown lion (even with a fence between you!)

There was still a slow drizzle of rain so we left the loins behind and headed to “FAIRVIEW” for their famous cheeses, some wine tasting and a lovely lunch. For the rest of the day we had free time – for shopping or relaxing.

Day 8 – Tues: We visit Annandale wine farm, where Hempies du Toit an ex Springbok ruby player charmed us all. His wines were very g

ood as well. Next it was onto Stellenboch for some Olive Oil Tasting and more shopping or exploring.

Before dinner we are able to visit the CHEETAHS OUTREACH at the Spier Wine Estate. What a special experience to be able to see two cheetah cubs (12 months old) ‘playing’ with each other or the adult cat prowling it’s territory! What absolutely amazing animals!

When we are finally able to tear ourselves away from the cheetahs we walked across to the spectacular “MOJOS” at SPIER WINERY. You have never experienced anything like this!

At Mojos you are able to immerse your sense in all that is Africa. We were surrounded with mosaics and copper, carved woods, cowrie shells, treehouses and unique water features.

In the air there was a heady bouquet of rich fragrant spices and herbs that were used in there many dishes. There was Tagines from the north, Boboties and world-class wines from the south, Samakavi Kavu from the east and Chicken Yassa from the west. You could say that the best from all over the continent was served up to us that night.

Day 9 – Wed: A spectacular day, as only the Cape can come up with! We travel to Cape Town,

going up the most famous mountain in the world – Table Mountain. The revolving cable car whisks us to the top of this mountain that stands at 1,086 metres above the sea, in just a few minutes. The views in all directions are magnificent.

Who expected we would have the opportunity to shop for leather goods at Cape Congo. (Thanks Neil for organising it.)

Lunch at Blues in Camps Bay! Once again the view was fantastic!

After lunch a visit to the flower markets where we bought lots of roses for Neil, and on to The Castle, which unfortunately was closed.

Day 10 – Thurs: A bit overcast today, but not to worry cause we’re going shopping at Somerset Mall.

A simple lunch today of fish and ‘slap chips’ at Gordons Bay, where we took over the fish and chip takeaway. Having reorganised their tables, brought in our own bottles of wine we overlooked the harbour and watched the crayfish boats come in. Magic.

Next it was back to Stellenbosch for a short rest (forget it – no rest!) before the highlight of the day – MURATIE, were we wine tasted in one of the oldest estates in the region. This was followed by a short trip down the road to KNORHOEK for a fantastic evening of “POTJIEKOS” (a dish cooked in a cast iron pot in an open fire) and Lamb on the Spit. What a fantastic evening!

Day - 11 – Fri: Another perfect day! We travel along the breathtaking coastal roads via Muizenberg, Kalk Bay, Fish Hoek and Simonstown. It is at Fish Hoek that we are able to watch fisherman working hard bringing in the nets loaded with fish.

At Foxy Beach we are able to visit the BOULDERS PENGUIN COLONY. Here we observed at close range this fascinating, endangered, flightless bird. How cute are they!

We then travel to CAPE POINT NATURE RESERVE, which I think is one of the most scenically spectacular parks around. This is where the two oceans meet, also the place were over 600 ships have sunk.

Lunch is at “THE TWO OCEANS” restaurant, which overlooks this most wonderful panoramic view. We have time to climb the mountain and enjoy the views – peaceful bay stretching out on one side crushing waves on the other side .

Back into the mini bus and off we go. Travelling via HOUTBAY to our new accommodation. The most beautiful “HUIJS HAERLEM” in Sea Point, with has spectacular views over the ocean. After a long day this evening is at leisure. We plan a light dinner of ‘SMOORSNOEK’ – a traditional dish with smoked snoek. Didn’t quite get to Smoorsnoek, but we enjoyed the smoked snoek and a glass of wine!

Day 12 – Sat: To Cape Town and the “BO KAAP” or “CAPE MALAY QUARTER”.

It’s raining, absolutely bucketing down and the wind is howling strong enough to invert our umbrellas. But we are determined and set off on our walking tour starting at the Bo Kaap Museum and wonder the narrow streets of colourful houses. We visit the spice shop and the butcher before finally subcoming to the weather and heading to our CAPE MALAY COOKING CLASS a little early.

This class was absolutely amazing and a highlight of all the Cooking Classes! Here we learned about the historic connection of Malay and South African cooking and enjoy lunch in a Malay home. We also learnt that you don’t have to have all the mod cons to produce a fantastic meal.

The afternoon was spent at THE WATERFRONT, some watching the rugby, others shopping and enjoying the delights that were to be found.

Back to Huis Haerlem for a short rest, warm showers and a regather. That evening we headed back to The Waterfront for dinner and jazz at The Green Dolphin.

From Matilda, “Thank you for my beautiful Topsy Venter Cookbook!”

Day 13 – Sun: We fly to Johannesburg, then go by bus to the world famous PILANSEBERG GAME RESERVE. The Pilanesberg National Park covers some 55,000 hectare and is the fourth largest in southern Africa. This park is perched on the eroded vestiges of an alkaline volcanic crater - one of only three such craters in the world.
Unfortunately as we arrived at our thatched chalets in MANYANI, which is on the edge of the park, a cold front also arrived and it was freezing cold!

Day 14 – Mon: Fortunately the next morning our sunrise game drive was delayed till after breakfast. This allowed the day to warm slightly but it was still freezing. So wrapped in blankets we headed off to see the wild life. We were told that the wild life was quieter then normal, but heck you couldn’t blame them for not wanting to get out of bed! This said, we still had a wonderful experience.

In place of the second game drive was a visit to SUN CITY and THE LOST CITY – incredible That night – our last night in South Africa, we had a traditional South African “braai” around the campfire.

Day 15 – Tues: We reluctantly leave Pilanesberg and head to the Johannesburg International airport were we have time for some last minute shopping before flying home via Singapore.

What a great time! What a great experience!

EISHHHHH!!!

Masie Matilda